Asheville, NC: The Wet and the Weird

In 1995, after a particularly traumatic series of life events, I was introduced to the music of a folk singer David Wilcox.

David hailed from Asheville, NC and wrote songs about life there. He sang of motorcycles, travels, love, life, fear and death and I found solace in his music. My fascination grew over the years of David and this dreamy town of Asheville. The closer we came to this idyllic city, this greener pasture I had dreamed of spending my golden years in, the more my dreamed seemed true.

"Oh, you'll love Asheville! It's beautiful!" everyone seemed to tell us.  We were assured we'd find a great downtown, with lots of craft beer, great shopping, liberal ideology, and cool people.

I tried so hard not to get my hopes up so I wouldn't expect too much. But every person who heard of our destination talked up the town, so it was hard to not be excited.

Highway and I rode the Blue Ridge Parkway from its southern end at the Great Smoky Mountains National Park en route to Asheville.  As the miles ticked away, the more excited I became. As we got into town, and got checked into our room, we managed to make it safely before the forecasted storm arrived.  The Days Inn was a welcomed sight, clean with nice amenities.

Jack of the Wood Tavern had come highly recommended by our new friend Mike Sooy, the operations manager of Magnolia Provisions. Highway enjoyed a couple of local brews as the live music played. Sadly, I was not at all pleased with my Meat and Cheese tray, its selection, value, flavor, and quality sorely lacked. I hoped it was just "one of those things" and did my best not to let it ruin the evening.

The people on the streets certainly had their own style, as if Asheville was where folks who don't fit in anywhere else go to live; much like the Island of Misfit Toys. After all, the town's motto is "Keep Asheville Weird".

For the next two days it poured rain; monsoon, tropical-style rain, move to higher ground and wait for the end-of-days kind of rain. We did our best to still head into town, still sample local food and drink, but the visit was simply miserable. Even if I hadn't had any expectations, even if I had found an enjoyable meal or had been able to see some sights, I would have been despondent.

My friend Jack, who graduated with me from Fontana High School, rode his Electra Glide down from his home in Hays, about a two hour ride, to meet Highway and I.  Jack stayed in Asheville to hang out the entire time.  After spending a few hours in our motel room catching up on life, I mentioned that I needed to get my front wheel re-balanced.  It was cupping badly.

But the rain was pouring outside.

Jack kept telling me that he was going to take us out to the Tail of the Dragon in a couple of days.  I just didn't want to ride it with this unbalanced front wheel.  So, we braved the rain and rode to MR Motorcycles, the local metric motorcycle shop in Asheville.

And I'm still a beginning rider.  Even after riding some 8,000 miles across the country in two-and-a-half months, it's still a tense and nervous moment just to go a few miles under pouring rain.  And keep in mind, I'm still riding on mismatched tires.  Katie Scarlet has a brand new Michelin Pilot Power on the rear and on the front, a Bridgestone Battlax on its last legs.  I had tried to get a new set back in Denver, but the folks at Thunderbird Motorcycles couldn't find me a matching pair.

So, I'm riding to MR Motorcycles in the rain, still a beginning rider, knowing my mismatched tires aren't doing what they're supposed to with the water, and I'm feeling the rear end fishtailing here and there in the turns.  That just makes the muscles in my shoulders and neck tense up and pinch the nerves branching out of my c-spine.  Complicating matters, my rain gear isn't 100% waterproof, I still feel trickles of cold wet underneath my layers.  I'm tense, I'm in pain, and I'm cold.  I hate riding in the rain.

While waiting for the wrenches at MR Motorcycles to balance my tire, we had lunch at Juicy Lucy's just up the road.  Me, Highway and Jack continued our catching up on life.  Meanwhile, the rain never let up.  We got the call that the tire was balanced, but chose to wait out the rain.  Except, it never let up.  And back at MR Motorcycles, it still never relented.

"Yeah, it's been like this the past few weeks", Jack said.  "This kind of rain is typical for this time of year".

"Great" I thought to myself.  "Just great."

We rode into downtown Asheville, determined to find a dark, cozy little bar with which to dry off over the next several hours.  Yet, it only meant getting more soaked and more cold.  My fibromyalgia had kicked into overdrive, but I powered through it and maintained a brave face.

The Thirsty Monk, an eclectic little pub focusing on Belgian beer, was where we ended up.  Down in the basement, we perched ourselves on barstools while our leathers hung on railings.  A strange little guy approached and talked to us about the weather.  He used to work as a meteorologist at the National Climactic Data Center a few blocks away, but has been unemployed the past year.  He says he just hangs out at the Thirsty Monk now.  He's one of those guys who just won't stop talking and won't go away.  By the look of his skinny body and oversized clothes, it appears his meager unemployment check goes mostly into brew.

There's a lot of loitering that goes on in downtown Asheville.  There's several street performers in their early 20s, doing everything from dancing, reciting poetry, and playing musical instruments of every kind, collecting just enough coins and dollar bills to earn them a few packages of ramen and an iced caramel macchiato.

One strange dude who's known by local proprietors as "highlander", walks a holding pattern around a few local bars and restaurants that have outdoor patios.  When a party vacates their table, he swoops down and drinks up the remaining beer in their glasses, and perhaps whatever scraps of food they leave behind.  The bussers work quickly to clear the tables hoping to deny him an opportunity to feast.

My favorite hang out in downtown Asheville was Dobra Tea.  Decked out in an Indian theme, complete with burning incense and sitar muzak playing overhead, we sat at the open window sipping chai tea and nibbling a brownie as the three of us watched people run through the rain.

There were no signs of celebration on Independence Day, the people were unfriendly (except the shop owners) and 8 inches of rain falling in two days, which is probably why the damn place was so green. The mountains are beautiful, hugging this tiny burgh with a certain love and harmony that draws poets, musicians, writers and artists to find kinship with others who share their love of being "weird".

While Highway and Jack hung out for beers at Lexington Ave. Brewery, I enjoyed shopping across the street at Instant Karma, a gift shop of sorts where the employees there are very friendly and offered some really cool collection of stickers I bought for my helmet.  They also have a very large pickle.  I mean, a very huge pickle.  So, I went back for Highway and dragged his butt over for a photo.

Sadly, the day we left Asheville I was glad to be packing and going, seeking drier pastures. Perhaps if our visit had occurred during better weather my opinion would be different. It's still a touristy downtown area, with cool eclectic shops and a great selection of craft breweries.

But, I'm sorry David Wilcox, as it stands, Asheville, this town I once wanted to retire in and call home, is a place I'm in no hurry to visit again.

Jack of the Wood Public House, Asheville, NC, said to be the best place for local craft brew.

A trio of musicians at Songwriters Roundtable, Jack of the Wood Public House

Our bikes parked in the rain, downtown Asheville

Our wet helmets at The Thirsty Monk, Asheville

The rain let up just briefly to give us a chance to ride back to our motel.

Jack and I graduated from Fontana High School, 1983 & 1984

Duke's Mayonnaise is the local favorite, but they changed their recipe, reducing the volume of egg whites and sugar to make it more palatable for the influx of Yankees who moved into North Carolina.

Jack and I at Dobra Tea in Asheville

The many teas to choose from at Dobra Tea

Hanging out at Lexington Avenue Brewery, Asheville

Highway had the Chicken Andouille Vindaloo at Lexington Avenue Brewery

Highway & Sash doing the "Road Pickle" at Instant Karma, Ashevlle

Posted by Sash Johnson at 4:56 PM

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Labels: North Carolina

Location: Asheville, NC, USA