Brinkley, AR: Riding Through Swamps

We couldn't have picked a hotter, sweatier, more humid day to ride through the swamps of eastern Arkansas.


Weather forecast still called for a 30% chance of rain between Russellville, AR (where we left this morning) to Memphis, TN (where we planned to stay the week).  And skies were mixed between partly sunny, and overcast.  I mean, it was already really humid when we left this morning, and now we were headed through swamp country, with temperatures reaching upper-90s (F).

I had planned to take all Interstate today, for two reasons.  One, because the day before we did some rather technical riding through tight twisties in the Ozark Mountains, and Sash needed a break with some easy slab.  Two, because my rear tire was already worn down to the steel belt on the left side.  So, I figured riding I-40 into Memphis would allow me to keep that tire on the center tread, away from the wear.

But as luck would have it, there was a traffic advisory saying there was heavy construction on the I-40 from Little Rock, AR to Brinkley.  Google Traffic showed the flow in red, indicating vehicles were stopped or moving very slowly.

And considering how hot it was getting the afternoon, and humid, (with the bugs flying around us) we just didn't want to crawl along through the construction zone.

So, on to US 70 it was.


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US 70 roughly parallels the I-40, and was originally the major thoroughfare between Little Rock and Memphis before the Interstate system came into being.  Just a two lane road through farm fields and tiny towns, the speed limit maxes at 55mph, which wouldn't be too bad except for the trucks to slow you down.

As a result, we found ourselves often languishing as low as 50mph, and opted not to go over 65mph, just in case Rosco P. Coltrane was hiding behind a billboard somewhere.

And then there were stretches of swamp on either side of us.  The swamp smell, the swamp humidity, and the swamp people hanging out at the swamp convenience stores in the swamp towns with their swamp babies, all seemed to heighten the misery.  Sash needed to use the restroom in the convenience store, but the swamp light was broken, and the toilet looked really swampy, so she opted to hold it in until the next stop.  The swamps might have been more scenic on a cooler, drier day, but on a day like this, it makes the Interstate look good.

But while the US 70 definitely offers better scenery, one can only look at swamp land and farm fields for so long, that the heat and humidity eventually takes over your focus.  That sun beats down on you and all you want is to get out of it.

Once we got into the town of Brinkley, and after deluging into a tall can of Peace Tea, we realized it was another 70 miles to Memphis.  At this juncture, we had moved far enough east that we were clear of the construction zone on the I-40, so we decided to head a little further north to catch the super-slab.

And it was a better idea.

Jumping it up to 80mph, we wanted to get to Memphis fast.  Hot, sweaty, humid, smelly, we said "Buenos Nachos" to East Arkansas, and waved "Hello" to the Mississippi River.

Waiting for us were Ed & Juliet, a nice couple in Memphis who agreed to rent out a spare bedroom for a week in their home.  We found their accommodations on AirBnB.com.  They live on a cul-de-sac, in a beautiful Colonial style home, and richly decorated.  The cul-de-sac eliminates through-traffic, meaning there's no one around to mess with our bikes.  It's like staying at a Marriott but paying Motel 6 prices.

But it's so quiet here at night, it makes me thankful I don't have my old Electra Glide with the Vance & Hines Ovals, because when we snuck out for a late night taco-run this evening, I would have felt really bad having to crank up that Twin-Cam and waking up our hosts.

Tomorrow, we check out Memphis.

There actually is a tiny town in Arkansas called "Toad Suck".

Sash and I used to live in Menifee, CA, so we decided to pay a visit to Menifee, AR.  Pamela is the City Clerk and Jerry is the Director of Everything Else.

Sash's tailbag comes courtesy of eBikerLeather, large enough to fit all of her womanly stuff.

Sash with her "Half Chaps" from Lissa Hill Leather, so that she can ride with shorts and still have leg protection.

The Half Slab at Whole Hog Cafe in Little Rock, AR. These were amazingly meaty, smoky, and tasty!

Sash wearing her "Vest Bag" from Lissa Hill Leather, a light vest that has large pockets on the front and inside, so that a woman doesn't need to carry a purse when riding.

The Trail of Tears once ran where the US 70 now runs through Arkansas.  Sash's great-great-grandmother walked this.

Sash's full face helmet, the Nolan N90, courtesy of Motorcycle House.

US 70 Eastbound Arkansas, there's miles and miles of swampy wetlands on both sides of us.

I-40 Eastbound through Arkansas

Sash makes it into Tennessee, via I-40 Memphis

Michelin Pilot Road II rear tire wear on a Honda ST1300.  I rode 200+ miles with this today.

Posted by Anonymous at 9:48 PM

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Labels: Arkansas

Location: Brinkley, AR, USA