Virginia Beach, VA: Cape Henry Lighthouse

Cape Henry Lighthouse, 1792

What's the first structure ever built by the United States government?

Look at the photo to the right, and there's your clue.

When Sash and I left San Diego nearly three months ago on our motorcycles, we knew we wanted to reach the Atlantic coast.  We just didn't know where on the coast.  For awhile, we thought it was going to be in Florida.  And for a moment, I thought maybe the Outer Banks of North Carolina.

But Virginia Beach, VA could have been as good any place else.  Yeah, it's touristy, it's a popular beach destination, and it's full of history.  But then again, anywhere else on the Atlantic coast will fit that description too.  So, it really just comes down to a roll of the dice.  In the end, we never planned to make Virginia Beach our coastal destination, it just worked out that way.

But instead of hitting the beach boardwalk, Sash and I opted for something a little more out of the ordinary.

Cape Henry.

It's the point right where the Chesapeake Bay meets the Atlantic Ocean.  It was where European settlers "first landed" before settling in Jamestown.  It was also the site of the famous Battle of Cape Henry, and it's also the site of America's first federal works project, the Cape Henry Lighthouse.

Today, Cape Henry sits completely within Fort Story, otherwise known as Joint Expeditionary Base East.  You can't just drive into Fort Story.  When entering from the east entrance along Atlantic Avenue, you have to tell the guard you want to visit Cape Henry Lighthouse.  They'll ask for your license, registration and proof of insurance, and then take down your license plate number and issue you a permit.  Otherwise, it's free.

The permit allows you to visit the lighthouse, as well as "First Landing", the place where the original Jamestown settlers first set ground, but it doesn't allow you to go anywhere else, not even the beaches.

The Cape Henry Lighthouse was originally built in 1792, and was the first ever federally funded works project in the United States.  For $5.00 per person, you can climb to the top of the lighthouse, which despite by the looks of it, is not really all that tall.  It's technically 191 steps.  But once at the top, you get a spectacular view of the Atlantic and the Chesapeake and Virginia Beach in the distance.

It was really hot the day Sash and I visited Cape Henry Lighthouse.  Temperatures reached 97 degrees F, which isn't all that hot for a couple of Southern Californians.  However, it was really humid.  It just felt hideous.  I thought I'd find relief at the top of the lighthouse, but no.  The top is completely encased in glass windows, locking in all of the day's sunshine and magnifying it then some.

In 1881, the federal government built a new lighthouse, which is even taller.  The public is not allowed in that one.  The two lighthouses stand together at Cape Henry.

At First Landing there is a cross erected exactly at the point where the first settlers erected a similar cross.  Over the decades and centuries, the cross was replaced by bigger and stronger versions.  Today, it's made of marble.

There's also a memorial to Francois Joseph Paul de Grasse, who on September 5, 1781, led his fleet of French warships and opened fire on the British fleet.  The battle prevented Cornwallis from getting badly needed reinforcements in Yorktown, thus enabling General Washington to crush the Redcoats, and assure victory for the fledgling United States.  That naval battle took place at Cape Henry.

But because Cape Henry is completely within Fort Story, we were not allowed to park our motorcycles anywhere near the beach, which apparently remains private for those servicemen who live on the Fort.  Too bad, because it would've been cool to get a photo of our bikes by the sand.

So, we rode into the touristy area of Virginia Beach, down Atlantic Ave and into a small obscure establishment called "Abbey Road Pub", an English style tavern completely decorated in Beatles memorabilia.  Abbey Road Pub had a good selection of locally brewed beer and some pretty interesting menu items.  I was looking to get a plate of "Lucy in the Sky with Tacos" or "They Say It's Your Burrito", but decided to settled with the "I Wanna Hold Your Ham Sandwich".

Well, as touristy, congested and overpriced as Virginia Beach can be, it's quite a welcome relief to find that we could get a good dose of history, and good views of the ocean, at Cape Henry, for free.

As it turned out, Sash and I didn't spend a lot of time touring around the Tidewater region of Virginia.  We instead spent much of our time indoors catching up on our work.  But of all the places we went to during that week, Cape Henry was probably the most memorable.

Cape Henry Lighthouse
583 Atlantic Ave, Fort Story, VA 23459
(757) 422-9421
http://preservationvirginia.org/visit/historic-properties/cape-henry-lighthouse

The new lighthouse on Cape Henry, built 1881

Sash climbs the first set of steps up to the Old Lighthouse

Cape Henry Lighthouse was the first federal works project, built 1792

It's only 191 steps to the top, but it was really hot and humid that day

Highway actually finds all this climbing fun

Sash takes a breather half-way up the lighthouse

It's even more hot at the top of the lighthouse, due to being encased in glass.

A view from atop the old lighthouse.  Can you see our motorcycles below?

At First Landing, Cape Henry, there's a lot of reading material.

This marble cross sits on the site of the original wooden cross placed there by the first Jamestown settlers in 1607.

Statue of Francois Joseph Paul de Grasse

Another cool photo of Francois Joseph Paul de Grasse

The beaches of Cape Henry are not open to civilians

Posted by Anonymous at 7:52 PM

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Labels: Virginia

Location: Cape Henry, Virginia Beach, VA, USA